So, you’re thinking of travelling to kurdistan Iraq?
Iraq I hear you ask, but isn’t it dangerous? Most people don’t know, and if we’re being completely honest neither did we until this trip, that Iraq is separated into two parts. Arab Iraq and Kurdish Iraq with the Kurdish part occupying the very top North of the country. This little underrated gem has got a bad rep in the media and really isn’t given the credit which it is due. Kurdistan travel is wonderful, safe and eye opening.
Located in the far north of Iraq, nestled between Iran and Turkey, is Iraqi Kurdistan. A safe but, at times, turbulent region, home to some of the most breathtaking mountains and rolling hills in the Middle East. In Kurdistan Iraq you’ll find lush green hills paired with snow-capped mountains, colourful cities and small towns. Making Kurdistan travel an incredible experience. Kurdistan Iraq and all of its beauty will certainly break all of the stereotypes that you have heard about Iraq.
Currency in Iraq
In Kurdistan, they use the Iraqi Dinar which is, approximately:
1 USD = 1,459 IQD
About Kurdistan Iraq
Kurdistan is a mixture of Kurds, Muslims, Christians and a range of other religions all living, mostly, harmoniously together. Kurdistan Iraq have been trying to gain independence to Iraq since 1970 and have held multiple uprising and referendums.
Despite all of the negative press that Iraq faces, Kurdistan Iraq is actually, one of the safest countries in the Middle East. This makes it a wonderful destination for travellers looking to experience a country away from the main backpacker route. As beautiful and interesting as the country is. What really made it stand apart for us was meeting some of the most hospitable people that we have ever encountered.
Whilst planning Kurdistan travel you’ll want to decide how you are going to get into the country.
Kurdistan has two international airports: Erbil and Sulaymaniyah, Erbil being the most used airport.
Do I need a visa to visit Kurdistan Iraq?
If you are a citizen of any EU countries, the UK, USA, Canada, Australia, Iran, and Turkey then you can get a visa on arrival upon entering Iraqi Kurdistan by land or air (this is what we did). The visa costs 75 USD. Alternatively, the government of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq has introduced a new e-visa process that you can apply before your trip.
It’s important to note that your Iraqi Kurdistan visa is only valid within the borders of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. With this visa, you cannot enter the rest of Iraq including Mosul or Kirkuk.
Also, ensure that your passport is valid for a minimum of 6 months from the date of your entry.
Is it safe to visit Kurdistan Iraq?
Despite the media Kurdistan has always been a relatively safe place to travel to. The territory has done a great job of keeping the area safe, even whilst the rest of the country is not. GOV currently advises against all but essential travel to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq.
We felt completely safe at all times whilst visiting the Kurdistan Region of Iraq and the people were nothing but friendly. Of course, as you would when visiting any new city/ country, don’t flash expensive tech/ jewellery about and don’t walk around late at night by yourself.
How to travel to Iraqi Kurdistan by air
It is possible to fly into Kurdish Iraq. Istanbul (both Turkish and Pegasus) and Dubai (Fly Dubai) are the cheapest and most common routes to travel to Kurdistan Iraq.
Travelling to Kurdistan Iraq by land – crossing the border
If you choose to travel to Iraq Kurdistan by land then there are two land borders that you can cross.
Iran – Iraq
Turkey – Iraq
We have heard that the Iranian side is very easy and straightforward. The Turkish side however, may not be. We crossed the border via the Turkish side, which, in short, long and when crossing back from Iraq to Turkey quite stressful.
When we arrived at the border we really didn’t have any expectations, we went in with open minds.
The border crossing from Turkey to Zakho in Iraq took us 8 hours in total including obtaining our visa. We have heard that this is a standard time due to Turkish residents crossing into Iraq to buy cigarettes and tobacco cheaply.
Where to visit in Iraq
We decided to divide our time here into 2 nights in Duhok and 3 in Erbil.
Other spots to visit in Kurdistan are Bekhal Waterfall, Koya, Dukan Lake, Sulaymaniyah and Ahmed Aye.
Duhok City
Duhok city is fairly small and vast. It has a few shops, restaurants, coffee shops and a some hotels.
Duhok is surrounded by rocky mountains making for a very interesting backdrop. The city has rich ancient heritage with historical ruins that dates back to 705-681 BC. There are also more than 42 archeological sites such as Grand Mosque, Old Bazar in the city center, Saint Ith Ilaha church, and Charstin, Shindokha and Hallamat caves.
If you are visiting Duhok City then a few other spots worth visiting are Lalish Temple, Duhok Mall, Family Mall Duhok, Halamata Cave and Azadi Park.
Our personal experience in Duhok city was that the people here are nothing but warm and welcoming. Their joy and excitement at purely your presence is truly genuine and they will do anything to show you this, from using Google translate or their limited English to find out more about you, to not letting you pay for coffees etc. when you go to leave their cafe.
The City of Erbil
The city of Erbil is the capital and the most touristic city in Kurdistan. Life in Erbil can be dated back to at least 6000 BC. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world! At the heart of the city is the ancient Citadel of Erbil, which is estimated to be close to 7000 years old.
To get from Duhok to Erbil we took a taxi this cost us 50USD. The drive was desolate and relaxing with barely any other cars on the road.
What is there to see in Erbil?
Erbil is the capital of the Kurdistan region with a lot of sites to see. We spent our days here exploring the centre and the Citadel, the old town built within a fort on top of the hill.
Erbil Citadel
One of the main things to do whilst visiting Erbil is to visit Erbil Citadel. It is what remains of the ancient fortified city. The Erbil Citadel was names a UNESCO world heritage site in 2014, you can also get a great view over the main square from here.
Visit Erbil Main Square
The main square is the perfect spot to head to and just observe day-to-day life. It square has lots of cafes where you can sit and people watch and chat to the locals. For the best view over the main square head to the Erbil Citadel.
Jalil Khayat Mosque
Another spot to not be missed is the Jalil Khayat Mosque.
It is the largest Mosque in the city and was built by Jalil Khayat who died in 2005, prior to the mosque being completed. In memory of their father his sons had the Mosque finished in 2007. The mosque is a mixture of Islamic architecture and Ottoman design and is ornately decorated inside and out. When we visited the Mosque was not actually open, however kindly one of the men let us have a quick look around and wow it is not to be missed!
The city of Erbil feels like an authentic, non-touristic Turkey. It has a similar cuisine, Shisha in abundance and baklava and kebabs for sale everywhere. The architecture is a mix of old preserved monuments, ramshackle market stalls and modern shops.
The city of Erbil is easy to walk around, has enough culture to keep you interested for a good few days and food choices to keep your stomach (maybe not your waistline) happy.
If you’re thinking about visiting Kurdistan Iraq…
If you’re thinking about visiting Kurdistan then our only advice is DO IT! (Just maybe don’t cross via the Turkey – Iraq border).
Yes, the country still has conflict and with it neighbouring Syria I doubt it will be deemed safe for quite a few more years.
However, from our experience we felt nothing but safe in this war stricken country, a country trying to rebuild itself and make it’s own Iraqi identity all with limited tourism and constantly being faced with the media telling you not to visit here. All of which happens whilst shootings and terrorism are happening across our Western world, uniting us and making us stronger. We continue to visit London, Paris and The USA right after an attack happens with our heads held high to show that we are not afraid, whilst simultaneously fearing the East for the exact same reason. Well (Kurdish) Iraq, you’ve won us over, thank you for your sheer generosity and ability to be so genuinely kind. We’d jump at the chance of coming back.
