Ecuador is a beautiful little country nestled between Colombia and Peru on the Pacific side of South America. The tiny country of Ecuador so easily gets forgotten, when travellers are planning their South America travel route unless travellers are referring to the Galapagos Islands.
When asking fellow travellers about their trip, when it comes to the subject if you would travel Ecuador, most people either skip the whole of the tiny South American country or only travel to the Galapagos Islands. Despite this, mainland Ecuador has so much to offer. With its Colonial cities, mountainous snowcapped landscapes and waterfalls galore it’s really not one to be missed off your South American backpacking route! If you’re travelling on a backpacker-friendly budget then the Galapagos might not be feasible (although we’ve heard you can do it on a budget). Fortunately, there is much more to travelling Ecuador than just the Galapagos.
Read on to discover why you should add travel Ecuador to your South American backpacking bucket list!
Total time spent here: 10 days/ 11 nights
Budget: £450 for both of us
Ecuadorian travel facts:
Language: The main language in Ecuador is Spanish, with Quechua, the language of the Incas, also widely spoken, plus a mix of indigenous dialects across the country.
The official unit of currency: US Dollar (USD)
Size of Ecuador: 283,560 km²
Capital of Ecuador: Quito
Transportation: Transportation is fairly easy within Ecuador and as the country is pretty small, this makes it easier to get around quickly. We used the local buses during our whole time here and found these pretty straightforward. We use Rome2Rio to get a general idea for bus times then headed to the bus terminals around 1hr before the bus was due to leave to buy our tickets.
Visa and entry requirements: Visitors from most countries do not need a visa for a visit of up to 90 days. As of March 2022, you don’t need a PCR or Antigen to enter the country if you are fully vaccinated. Proof of your Covid-19 vaccine is required. The Yellow Fever vaccine is also recommended, however, ours wasn’t checked.
If you are thinking to travel Ecuador then you may also enjoy Everything You Need To Know About Visiting The Untouched San Blas Islands.
Our Travel Route:
Quito – 3 nights
Cotopaxi – 2 nights
Banos – 3 nights
Riobamba – 2 nights
Guayaquil – 1 night
Quito
Like most trips to travel around Ecuador, our trip started in Quito, the capital. We opted to stay here 3 nights, which was a great amount of time to be able to get a feel for the city whilst also not as if we had overstayed. The city is beautiful with its surrounding mountains, hilly viewpoints and colonial buildings.
Where did we stay?
We stayed in Masaya Quito. A huge hostel in the centre of the historic old town with some of the best dorm beds we have ever stayed in, complete with USB chargers, a plug socket, light, complete privacy screen and a huge area to dump all of your belongings within each bunk. All for just over £5 per night.
You can book Masaya Quito here.
Top things to see in Quito
Quito is an extremely mountainous and hilly city meaning it has a lot of viewpoints throughout it, something which you’ll experience a lot when you are travelling Ecuador.
We visited two of these during our stay in Quito:
1. Basílica del Voto Nacional
An incredibly beautiful Roman Catholic church located in the historic centre of Quito. You can pay $3 to climb up to the top and are greeted with a view over the whole city.
2. Virgin of the Panecillo
A large hill is set in the centre of Quito. The walk-up is free, however, after doing the hike up we were told that it is actually unsafe for tourists and locals to do the hike. This is due to the number of wild dogs on the walk (we saw A LOT, although they left us alone and just barked a lot). And also, unfortunately, due to the levels of crime which can happen on the hill.
There are plenty of other things to keep you entertained whilst travelling the capital of Ecuador, be that wandering the colonial bustling streets, hiking nearby volcanos, riding the cable cart (TelefériQo de Quito) over the city or trying out the local cuisines in one of the large food halls. We even found a veggie dish in one of the stalls. Ecuadorian stuffed potato patties and salad for $2.50. Very tasty and we were extremely excited to of found local vegetarian food.
We stayed in the old town which has a beautiful square and cobbled streets, plus, the majority of the main attractions to see whilst you’re in Quito.
How to get from Quito to Cotopaxi
To get between these two places head to Quito Terminal Quitumbe, you can get an Uber or taxi here. The journey costs us $5 in an Uber and takes around 30 minutes. From here, head to the main bus terminal and look for a sign saying Latacunga, the buses run fairly regularly and tickets cost $2.50 each plus, 20 cents for a terminal tax. The buses were fairly comfortable and actually on time (which for Central and South America, is pretty rare!).
Latacunga for Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi is an active stratovolcano set in the Andes Mountain. Cotopaxi is Ecuador’s second-highest volcano, with a height of 5,897 m (19,347 ft). It’s also the world’s fifth-highest active volcano! Just a 1.5-hour bus journey from nearby Quito sits one of the highest active volcanos in the world. Located in the centre of a beautiful national park and in our eyes, a must-see if you’re planning a trip to Ecuador!
Where did we stay?
We opted to stay in the main town, Latacunga, near Cotopaxi national park. We stayed in Hostel Tierra del Fuego a budget-friendly, yet clean hostel. Perfect if you’re watching the pennies whilst travelling Ecuador. However, if we had a bit more money then we would have stayed in either The Secret Garden Cotopaxi which we have heard incredible things about or Cuscungo Cotopaxi – Hostel & Lodge which also looks lovely, right in the middle of nature.
You can book Hostel Tierra del Fuego here.
Top things to see in Cotopaxi
You can either do a day trip here from Quito or opt to stay in one of the nearby towns or in accommodation just off the road, near the national park. We opted to stay in the nearby town of Latacunga. We stayed here two nights, which was the ideal amount of time to see the national park and explore the little town. Unless you plan on hiking to the summit of Cotopaxi, which takes 2 days, then 2 nights is plenty.
We arrived in Latacunga early afternoon via bus from Quito, in our heads we had pictured being completely emersed in nature with huge volcanos looming over us at every turn. The reality was a little different. When we arrived the weather was grey and a tad gloomy meaning the volcanos weren’t visible at all. Latacunga is a busy, bustling town filled with lots of local cafes and shops, not quite the ‘off the beaten track’ vibe we were looking for! However, don’t let this sway you from staying here. If you’re looking for a budget option whilst visiting the national park then staying here is most certainly it. We paid just over £3 per night for a dorm room compared to £10 per night minimum to stay closer to the national park, so it’s certainly an option to be considered!
On our second day here we woke up bright and early to blue skies and a beautiful, looming, snow-capped volcano! The town immediately had a completely different feel and we jumped out of bed quickly, ready to explore the national park.
As we knew the weather could turn so quickly we opted for a taxi instead of the local bus to the entrance of Cotopaxi. This cost us $15 and took around 30 minutes. The bus would have been a lot cheaper, around $1 each, however, as we mentioned we were worried about the weather changing so the quickest option was the best one for us. The bus can be taken from the main bus station Terminal Terrestre Latacunga.
As we approached the entrance to the national park there were 4×4’s lined up ready to take visitors on tours around the park. As soon as we got out of the taxi they rushed over to us, telling us why we needed to go on the tour with them and how much they charge. We didn’t know this at the time, but it turns out you can’t just wander around the national park due to its huge size and terrain. The tour costs $20 per person and takes you to 4 different locations within the park including escorting you up to the refuge point on the mountain and a beautiful lake. They also sort out your entrance for you (you need an ID or a photo of your ID to enter).
Of course, the main part of our trip to Cotopaxi was climbing up to the refuge point. The hike took us around 1hr to get to the top and a quick descent of 15 minutes. It’s not overly steep due to the trail zig-zagging the whole way up, however, the altitude makes it feel a lot more difficult than it should. So, take it slowly with lots of breaks and make sure you drink lots of water. Once you reach the refuge point you can buy hot drinks (we opted for a hot chocolate) or a snack. They also have a selection of hot meals. The refuge point is still pretty cold but, the hot drink quickly warmed us up and it was lovely to have a sit down before our descent. Our guide escorted us the whole way up and was really lovely and encouraging, she certainly earned her $20 fee.
Baños
The adventure and spa capital of Ecuador! The small town of Banos, full name Baños de Agua Santa, was one of our favourite stops in Ecuador. Surrounded by waterfalls, rolling hills and thermal baths, and not forgetting the famous Swing at the End of the World. Baños is full of adventure, with tons of activities to do. We spent 3 nights here but, could have very easily spent longer exploring the beautiful surrounding nature and taking part in the countless activities surrounding the town. As well as wandering around testing the various epic bars and coffee shops and just relaxing in one of the many spa thermal baths.
Where did we stay?
We stayed in Erupcion Art Hotel & Hostel. Whilst it was in a great location, right on the main road and the view from the rooftop bar was epic, we would only recommend staying here if you don’t mind a bit of noise. We were particularly unlucky and had a really noisy dorm room next to us but, if they hadn’t been there the noise from the road would have still been a tad too much for us.
However, if you plan on drinking or staying up late in Baños, then Erupcion Hostel is a great choice.
You can book Erupcion Art Hotel & Hostel here.
Top things to see in Baños
Casa del Arbol
One of the coolest and most famous places to visit in Baños is Casa del Arbol. This treehouse is built on the edge of one of the mountains next to the Tungurahua Volcano. The ‘adventure park for adults’ – what we’re calling it anyway, features the famous swing plus other smaller ones, beautiful viewing points and a small zip wire.
Entrance to the park costs $1. We paid $7 for a taxi up to Casa del Arbol and hitched a lift back into town.
Ruta de las Cascadas
There are many activities to do in Banos, but one of the main ones includes biking or getting a bus through The Waterfall Route, otherwise known as Ruta de las Cascadas. A 25km cycle route from Baños towards the town of Puyo, where you’ll pass countless waterfalls, ziplines, cable cars, swings, and even a bungee jump! If cycling isn’t your thing or you are short on time you can also opt for a tour bus, which costs $10 or a local bus. To save on budget, we opted for the local bus.
To opt for the local bus, head to the main bus station in Baños and hop on the bus heading towards Puyo. You can get off the bus at any of the waterfalls along the route (you’ll begin to see them by the side of the road). We opted to start at Pailón del Diablo, otherwise known as Devil’s Cauldron.
Entrance to Devil’s Cauldron is $2. There are two sides that you can enter both taking you different routes around the waterfall. We opted to visit both so as to get both views, something we definitely don’t regret doing!
After this waterfall, we hopped back on the public bus (costing us 50 cents each) to Cascada el Manto de la Novia where we got a little cable car across the water, costing us $2 each, and back to the waterfall. Probably not great if you’re scared of heights but a fun little activity nonetheless. Another for your Travel Ecuador bucketlist!
Thermal Pools
Another popular activity to do in Baños is to visit one of the many thermal pools. Baños offers public or private (hotel) ones. These hot springs come directly from the Tungurahua volcano. El Salado hot springs are the main public ones and are located just a 10-minute walk from the city centre.
Bonus tip!
Take a visit to Aromi cafe. We had read about this little cafe on another blog and it was without a doubt the best Mocca we have ever had! They have a variation of Ecuadorian coffee beans and fresh chocolate bars to choose between, so these two combined in a mocha was perfect. We didn’t try the coffee or hot chocolate but we’re sure both of these are also epic! A must try if you travel Ecuador.
Riobamba for Chimborazo
Riobamba is a cute town in itself and one we recommend adding to your travel Ecuador list. However, the main reason we were here was to climb Chimborazo, Ecuador’s tallest mountain. A must for any South American backpacking route.
Chimborazo stands at 6,263 m (20,548 ft) tall and if measured from the earth’s core, the closest point to space in the whole wide world! Even closer than Mount Everest due to a bulge in the earth’s equator. How crazy is that?!
Where did we stay?
In Riobamba, we stayed in one of the nicest hotels we have ever stayed in; Villa Bonita. Villa Bonita is run by a local family and has a really lovely family feel about it, without it feeling like you’re in their home. We booked a double private room for around £20 per night, the room was huge, light and very clean, just like the rest of the hostel. The hostel also has a communal kitchen, includes homemade breakfast and has a games room.
You can book Villa Bonita here.
Top things to see in Chimborazo
Whilst you could spend a day or two exploring the town of Riobamba, as we said, the main thing to see here is Chimborazo mountain, a must for any travel Ecuador route!
To get here you can head to Terminal Terrestre and get on the bus heading towards Guaranda. There are two buses per day, one that leaves at 7:30 am and the other at 8:30 am, we took the 8:30 am one and arrived here at the perfect time for the clouds to clear. Ensure you tell the bus driver that you’re going to Chimborazo and they’ll inform you when to get off the bus when it arrives at the entrance. Here you’ll register with your passport, or a photo of one, and began your assent.
The ascent to the first refuge point takes around 2 hrs and is marked with wooden poles. We began our ascent and then cheated a little. A local couple was driving by and offered to take us up for $2 each. At this point, the visibility was non-existent so we didn’t think the hike up was going to be that amazing, therefore, eagerly we agreed and hopped into their car. You can also take a taxi up or hike up yourself. Due to the snow, our car got stuck a few times and we ended up pushing it. Despite this, it was still easier than the hike up!
After around 30 minutes we reached the car park and refuge point, by this point the clouds had cleared and we were met with an incredible view in every direction plus, thick white snow. Not a site we were expecting to see in Ecuador!
Unfortunately, the refuge centre was shut but we spent some time walking around, taking in the view and playing in the beautiful snow before our assent down. This descent down took us around 30 minutes.
We then headed back to the entrance centre to wait for the bus, instead, we hitched a ride with a lovely gentleman heading back towards Riobamba. This was one of our highlights whilst travelling Ecuador, so don’t miss it if you love snow and adventure!
Hitch-hiking in South America and when travelling Ecuador seems pretty common and in our experience is generally safe, however, always keep your wits about you and trust your instincts.
Bonus Tip!
If you visit Chimborazo or Cotopaxi be sure to wrap up warm, think lots of layers, and wear suncream! It might be cold but we got BURNT! (Think very red, slightly swollen face – not a good look!). And, not something you think about when you travel Ecuador!
Guayaquil
Our final stop in Ecuador, the coastal city of Guayaquil. We only stayed here for one night before our flight out so didn’t get much time to actually explore the city. However, the city is full of shops and restaurants, a lighthouse plus, the largest Ferris wheel in the whole of South America!
Where did we stay?
Accommodation in Guayaquil seemed more expensive than the rest of our Ecuador travels however, we did manage to find one little gem. We stayed at Residencia Terreros, an apartment with its own kitchen and ensuite and even a TV with Netflix built into it. The place was clean and the staff were more than helpful. From the outside it looks like a random door off the street however, whilst looking around for where to go in, the locals all seemed to know exactly what we were looking for and showed us the door. The apartment was in a great location for exploring the city.
You can book Residencia Terreros here.
Ecuador really surprised us and ended up being one of our favourite countries that we have visited in a while. Its small size made it easy to travel around, the people were friendly and the landscape incredibly beautiful. So, if you’re planning a South America backpacking travel route, don’t skip mainland Ecuador. Travel Ecuador!
